Louis Roederer, the horse and biodynamics

Louis Roederer, the horse and biodynamics.

Four questions to Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, Deputy CEO of Louis Roederer, Chief of cellars.

Is Roederer Bio friendly?

In fact Louis Roederer began biodynamics in 2000. Since ten years now, we grow acres of vines avoiding synthetic chemicals, but using solely natural and organic products.
Beginnings were not easy, we were often close to failures. Human failures first, the project had been improperly sold to teams, which were skeptical those technics. Bad luck too, the disastrous rains in September 2001 led to the emergence of "midiou" ... The project was relaunched in 2005, this time taken very seriously. We have been helped by a consultant, and went to check and study the experiences of the Burgundy vineyards.

Today we grow 12 acres of biodynamic vineyard, more precisely 24 acres total dedicated to this project; 24 acres in which different plots of land are systematically divided in half: the so-called "vine witness" grown in the traditional ways, and the other half on the biodynamics basis. Always in order to permanently establish scientific comparisons. Roederer is the only major Champagne house to grow vines this way approaching such an important scale.

It must be a considerable greater charge of work compared to the conventional approach?

We realized that, far from being irrational, biodynamics is to return to the traditional, common sense, along with of course acting more environmentally friendly, to be even closer to Nature. A greater charge of work, yes, because the craftman has to return to the vineyard every day, care must be taken on the vine like boiling milk. Return of the carftman but also of the horse, as shown in the picture: everything is natural! Those are the excat opposite methods compare to those used in the 70s, spraying vines with a particular products and wait patiently until the harvest. With biodynamics we are really at the center of the artistery of Roederer, a search of all days!

But this is not a break with our work ways. The so-called "classic" approach at Roederer applied to the entire vineyard, is already "more rational", meaning: minimizing the use chemicals, and tend, each day, toaward a viticulture yet more organic ... I would rather use the concept of ecological and responsible viticulture which alllow us our way out of the debate, sometimes a bit obscure and useless, of whether Bio or not Bio. Biodynamics, means more work with the livings, with the march of the planets, the climate ... It is a more complete, organic vison of our environment, placing man in the middle of the forces of Nature!

What is the best method then? Is the Organic better?

Thanks to Roederer's scientific approach, we have for each vine its bio sister subject, "more rational", so we can compare. Every winter, we are tasting. What we can say up to this day, is that biodynamics produce different wines; certainly more rustic during their early days, but a lot more tempered and perhaps - perhaps! - A greater aging potential. It's still early, but we are working on a long-time pace, with measured steps, in a workshop of patience, and our work will provide for the future generation.

This is an exciting jobnot only for us, but also for our friends wine tasters from around the world, that are visiting our "laboratory" to check up our research, the biodynamic vineyard in comparison with its vine sister subject ...

"Laboratory": for the moment the biodynamic vineyard does not fit in Roederer's Champagne assemblage?

Yes, of course it does! Biodynamic is part of the 410 plots of vine acres that we taste, eyes wide shut, to compose our wines. The biggest tasters are able to distinguish ,blindfold, biodynamic vineyards among these 410 plots. Those plots are even part of the composition of Brut Premier, the Vintage, and sometimes even Crystal.

Ultimately, with biodynamics, the road we are driving on is very easy and simple. It's about getting the highest expression of terroir we can, while practicing a viticulture more respectful towards Nature. Respect more, to get better!